Peru - Impressions and Tips

Before my memory fails me I want to chronicle my recent trip to Peru.  Hope you find the information here interesting and useful.  For vaccination requirements see this page.

Peru, the quintessential South American country.  I divided my 8 day journey equally between Lima, Peru's capital and largest city, and the Cuzco/Machu Picchu/Sacred Valley areas.  In hindsight, I would devote less time to Lima and more time to Cuzco/Machu Picchu/Sacred Valley.

Lima - Central and Miraflores

Lima, like many large cities in developing countries, is a study in contrast.  A three dollar (ten sols) taxi ride separates 5-star Western hotels and utter poverty.  A relatively large city without a subway system, you will find yourself needing to taxi between the various major points of interests. 

taxis are cheap and plentiful

The good news is taxis in Lima are cheap and plentiful.  I like that fares are not metered so you never feel the driver is taking you on the long route.  You simply agree to a fare with the driver beforehand. 

Most taxis are not officially licensed.  Pretty much anyone with a car can be a taxi.  At least once we got a ride from some random guy.  This is not advised by the guide books, but I never felt any danger.  My motto is, if you're going to get robbed, you will get robbed, so let it be.

taxis come in all shapes, sizes and conditions

Busing is an alternative, although with taxis being pretty cheap you have to be really adventurous to take the bus for short trips.  The smaller buses have these guys hanging out the door asking people on the street if they need rides.  If you did, you just flag them down and hop on.  At least that's my impression of how their bus system works.

I primarily visited two areas in Lima, Central Lima, the historical center, and Miraflores, the nicer, trendier district where upper Limeans and tourists congregate.  Central Lima can be rather seedy.  It's congested, polluted and dirty.  But you will want to visit Central Lima if you want to see the churches and plazas of colonial era. 

We started our first day visiting the church of San Francisco and its catacombs.  Then headed to Plaza Mayor to see the changing of the guards before making a trek down to Plaza San Martin via a lively commercial street.  Afterward we checked out Chinatown.  Lima has a plethora of Chinese restaurants (Chifas).  The one we tried was pretty good.

Peruvian guards in Plaza Mayor

Miraflores is where we stayed.  A few kilometers from Central Lima, it is safer, less crowded and cleaner.  But there's no character here.  The major areas (Park Kennedy, Park Central, Larcomar) are lined with touristy shops and restaurants. 

Park Kennedy/Central is relaxing and you can check out the local artists selling their paintings while enjoying a Starbucks.  Larcomar is the cliff-top shopping center along the beach, about a 10 minute walk from Park Kennedy.  A trendy mall with very nice restaurants and bars, including a Hooters!  Not very "Peruvian" but you do get nice views of the beach from high atop the cliff.

view of the beach from Larcomar

Saturday night, at the recommendation of a nice bouncer at the Flying Dog Hostel Bar, we went to a lively Peruvian bar called El Tayta (421 - 437 Av Larco).  El Tayta features live music and the crowd was friendly and fun.

lively entertainment at El Tayta Peruvian bar

There's another area called Barranco known for its nightlife and bohemian living, but we didn't really get a chance to explore it.

Our lodging in Lima was Hostal el Patio in Miraflores.  The patio, hence the name, is very charming but the water pressure is not that great.  The location is pretty good, about a 5 minute walk from Park Kennedy and Starbucks.

Hostal el Patio - charming but weak water pressure

Lima in July is gloomy.  If you're thinking hot, South American summer, think again.  The weather was actually rather depressing, especially when mixed with the pollution.

I would say two days in Lima is enough.

Cuzco, Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley

I really enjoyed the Cuzco area.  There's just something magical about this place.  Cuzco is a quick one hour flight from Lima.  The main thing to known about Cuzco -- healthwise -- is it's 10,000 feet above sea level.  The air is thin and you may get altitude sickness.   

Coca leave tea is suppose to help you acclimate.  Drink the tea then chew the leaves.  Don't try snorting the leaves.  You can also buy some pills at the local drugstore.  We bought some in Lima before our flight, but never used it. 

I definitely felt short of breathe but nothing too major.  I did catch a bad cold, so maybe my cold masked the altitude sickness as well.  Some people will get headaches and dizzy (my sister).  Take it easy, don't do too much.  Overall, you should be fine.  You won't die or anything like that (don't quote me).

Unfortunately, we did not get to spend much time in Cuzco.  We did a quick walk to the main plaza and saw some of the small, charming cobblestone streets, but after less than one day in Cuzco we had to catch the train to Machu Picchu.

Cuzoc's charming streets

Machu Picchu, the Lost City of the Incas, is a 4 hour train ride from Cuzco.  Found out the backpackers class was fully booked, so we had to go for the more expensive Vistadome class (around $40 roundtrip extra, I think).  If you are concerned about reserving tickets I think you can do it through the Peru Rail website.  All trains to Machu Picchu from Cuzco leave early in the morning (6 am).  Return from Machu Picchu to Cuzco is around 3 PM.

The guide for our hostal, Hostal Rumi Punku, booked everything for us:

(a) the train ticket to Aguas Calientes, the town next to Machu Picchu;

(b) the bus tickets from Aguas Calientes to the Machu Picchu ruins;

(c) the entrance ticket into Machu Picchu;

(d) and the guide person at Machu Picchu. 

Note, we did not do the Inca Trail.  For that you'll definitely have to reserve in advance.

Incidentally, Hostal Rumi Punku has awesome water pressure.  The location is not bad, about 10 minute walk to the Cuzco main square, but it is on a relatively quiet street (I like more action).

You can do a day trip to Machu Picchu, i.e., take the morning train from Cuzco, get to Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo) around 10 AM, take the 20 minute bus ride up to Machu Picchu, spend a few hours there before returning.

But I don't suggest a day trip.  It's too rushed and by the time you get to Machu Picchu you'll miss the sunrise.  Instead, spend a night in Aguas Calientes.  Leave most of your luggage in Cuzco, just bring an overnight bag.

There's no much to do in Aguas Calientes except relax, but that's fine in my book.  Machu Picchu is at a lower elevation than Cuzco (~ 8,000 feet), so you won't have altitude sickness and can drink the night away.  Also, you should eat dinner at Indo Feliz.  It's in all the guide books because it really is that good.  Be sure you look for my business card on the wall.

After a good night's sleep, wake up to take the first bus at 5:30 AM to the Machu Picchu ruins.  It'll be relatively empty, you can play with the llamas and alpacas and see Machu Picchu evolve as the sunrises.  You can also hike up for free, using the same roads as the bus, but it's dusty and steep.  You might as well do the Inca Trail if you're into hiking.

Machu Picchu as the sun rises


yes, there are llamas for you to photograph

After seeing the sun rise over Machu Picchu, if you're in good shape, you can climb up one of the two peaks to get a bird's eye view of the ruins.  They only allow 400 climbers each day, so go early.

Some tips for Machu Picchu

• you can go in and out with your ticket (bring your passport or ID)
• you can bring water and food inside
• no large backpacks (there is a bag check if needed)
• food and drinks are available outside
• after about 11 AM the entrance line gets long, so go out to use the restroom before 11 AM
• when getting a tour guide, ask how many people are in the tour (less is most likely better)
• cold and windy in the morning but hot and sunny in the afternoon (July)

While I thoroughly enjoyed Machu Picchu, I actually liked our Sacred Valley tour more.  The Sacred Valley of the Incas is the Urubamba River valley, about 10 miles north of Cusco, and extends northwest through Pisac and Ollantaytambo. 

The landscape and scenery in the Sacred Valley is amazing.  We did the touristy Pisac market, which wasn't so bad, as there are plenty of colorful trinkets to look at.  Then it was off to Ollantaytambo.  Fascinating place, quaint town.  If I had more time I would have done a longer Sacred Valley tour.  Our tour guide, "Freddie," was really good.  Ask for Freddie.

trinkets in Pisac market


I really enjoyed Ollantaytambo

Other tips

• save some money for the airport taxes (~ $30 Lima, ~ $6 Cuzco)
• try the guinea pig (cuy), but don't expect too much, as it tastes like chicken and the skin is rather tough
• bring some small gifts for the Peruvian children -- they are so cute to photograph, I wished I had some toys for them

Peruvian school boy

I will definitely make a return trip to Peru to check out Lake Titicaca and the Amazon forest jungle.  Hope you found the information here useful.  You can check out more of my Peru photos here.

Comments

[Chung]

Very detailed. Thanks for sharing.