Before my memory fails me, or I get arrested for making death threats against Steve Jobs, let write a little about my recent visit to Moscow, Russia.
Yes, I am borderline insane: I spent almost as much time flying from San Francisco to Moscow as I did in Moscow. But hey, what's the alternative. I want to travel the world but don't have enough vacation days; three days is better than no days.
Originally, I wanted to visit Saint Petersburg and take my 730 steps along K-Street, but a few things made me choose Moscow instead. One, I still haven't completed Crime and Punishment, so I'd be a total poser. Two, I wanted to spit on Lenin's Tomb (in Moscow). And three, I read a NY Times article about 36 hours in Moscow, which made my planned 72 hours in Moscow sound not so ridiculous. So off I went, ready to stand in the shadows of Lenin, Stalin, Gorbachev, Yeltsin.
Flight
I took a United Airlines/Lufthansa flight to Moscow's Sheremetyevo airport, connecting in Frankfurt, Germany. Sheremetyevo airport is horrible. There's actually two Sheremetyevos, Sheremetyevo-1 and Sheremetyevo-2. International flights arrive and depart at Sheremetyevo-2. I heard the other Moscow airport, Domodedovo, is newer and better.
Sheremetyevo is really small, crowded and dirty compared to modern international airports such as Narita in Tokyo. There are not enough seats for waiting passengers and not enough shops to keep you entertained. They do have a rather cool fresh orange juice vending machine, though.
Airport Transfer
While Moscow has an extensive metro system, there is no direct way to get from Sheremetyevo to the city. There is a bus that will take you to the metro, but I didn't want to get lost, so I opted for a taxi. A taxi to Moscow will cost 900 Rubles; agree on the price beforehand. If you have more time or are more adventurous, be warned that signs in Cyrillic are difficult to read and understand.
Visa and Passport
Before I forget, you need to get a letter of invitation and visa from the Russian government before entering Russia. You can do it yourself, but I just used the services of Travel Visa Pro because I didn't want to go through the hassle of getting a letter of invitation and going to the Russian consulate. $150 later, I got a little sticker in my passport saying I can visit Russia for 30 days.
Lodging
Moscow is now the most expensive city in the world, ahead of Tokyo and London. This translates to hotels in the $500+ per night range in the heart of the city. My budget was an order of magnitude less, so I went with HM Hostel Moscow. Small hostel, maybe 25 guests total. One shared shower, two shared wash closets, a kitchen, free Internet access and a small lounge area. Clean, with a friendly staff. Location is great. About a 15-20 minute walk to the Kremlin and right next to a metro station.
Impressions
My trip coincided with City Day, or Moscow Day. Every year, during the first weekend of September, Moscow celebrates its anniversary. 2007 is 860 for Moscow. Parades, music, celebrations happen all over the city. If you like to watch the locals just hang out, this is a great weekend to visit. It's an extended event, running throughout the day, so it's not as intense as some other city events I've been to.
Girl carries the Russian flag
The good thing is, tourist attractions remain open, so, for example, you can still visit the Kremlin. My only complaint is they setup this huge stage in front of St. Basil's Cathedral, which partially blocks it from the north side, so you can't get a clear photo of Red Square with the Cathedral in the background.
St. Basil's Cathedral w/ stage in front
The weather during this time is very comfortable, t-shirt and light jacket should be good enough. It did drizzle on Saturday a little, but Sunday was sunny and gorgeous.
Moscow is an old city with so much history. Walking around the City Center area (Red Square/Kremlin) you can just feel the past come alive. You can see Russia's authoritarian past in the eyes and faces of the older generation. There's a sense of dignity for some, while others are having harder times adjusting to capitalism and the New Russia.
Proud old Russian man shows off his medals
Old Russian woman picks up change
The New Russia is not bashful. Rolls Royce, Bentley and Ferrari dealerships next to old KGB buildings. Fancy new department stores (GUM) selling everything from Apple iPods to Zara dresses. And sushi everywhere. Forget caviar, the in-crowd eats sushi and drinks $10 ice teas for lunch.
Shopping mall bar and lounge
My stay in Moscow was too short to even begin to get a real feel for the city, but overall I enjoyed very much my visit.
Some more photos from the trip here.
